The Split.

Want to hang with the cool kids while the sun in up in Caye Caulker? There is only one place, filled to the brim with beer and bikinis: the Split. Back in the day, a hurricane tore through the middle of Caye Caulker and created a narrow channel called the Split. It’s now the northern most point of civilization on the southern island and the perfect place to while away the daylight hours. Here is the best swimming beach and snorkeling just off the dock where you will see barracudas, octopuses, and sergeant majors. It’s also a great place to sunbathe or bring the kids to frolic in the shallow water. But when the sun starts to go down people are drawn there for the vibe and view. And come on, how cool is it to say “yeah, I’ll meet you for sunset at the Split.”

Chillin’ as the sun goes down. A key part of every day in Caye Caulker.

The infamous Rasta boat, ready for sunset cruises. UPDATE: I hear from locals that the hull is like swiss cheese plugged with rolled up t-shirts and it regularly sinks 3-4 times per year.

The actual split channel, with a wicked current.

Bellying up to the bar…

It’s a small town and if you head to the Split you’ll run into just about everyone. Locals, tourists, it doesn’t matter. Come with your hostel-mates, family and kids for a bbq, or alone because you’ll find company there even if you aren’t looking for it. I’ve come with peeps, serendipitously reconnected with travelers from other stops on my trip, and made new friends (most notably a kick-ass tour group who was always the life of the party and adopted me for two days). On Saturdays, “everyone” also includes one very sociable parrot named Polly who grew up around the bar and loves making new friends. She is an excellent cheek-cuddler.

The bar, the Lazy Lizard, is always hopping, especially during sunset happy hour. They provide ample buckets of Belikin beer (both lager and stout) and rum specials including the girls’ favorite, the panty ripper (ridiculous name, but it’s a delicious mix of fresh pineapple juice and local coconut rum so we suck it up and order them anyways). The house green frozen punch is very mysterious. Oh, and they sell Cuban cigars. Heart. Repeatable trip side quest completed!

Secret ingredient = antifreeze? But then how does it stay frozen?!

Me and Joanne in the aftermath.

P.S. Wondering where to go after sunset? Here’s the scoop: I&I Reggae Bar from 10pm until they close at 12, then follow the mass exodus down the street to Oceanside Night Club for karaoke or dancing away the rest of the night. It’s just that easy.